
This is a series of articles geared towards becoming a better photographer, with emphasis on wedding a portrait photography. I am Soren Coughlin-Glaser Photographer and owner of
http://www.fortunephotobooth.com and
and since my photo booth sales clients are usually wedding and event photographers, I am writing these articles to help you all become better photographers. I always value your opinion, so please email me if you need clarification or have a great question you would like answered here. You can contact me personally at soren@fortunephotobooth.com .
Today on Be a Better Photographer I am going to talk about how you can use manual mode on your camera to get better photos in difficult lighting situations.
I'm a big fan of the auto exposure features of today's DSLRs, I use P and AV modes for 90% of my candid wedding shooting. I shoot Raw (see #3 in the
series) so I know I have some latitude for exposure adjustment in post processing, and the auto modes of the cameras really helps you get a shot quickly without thinking about it.
But, I also use the auto modes as a cheater light meter to help me get better manual mode photos in tricky lighting situations. Sometimes you do have the time to fix your exposure so you know all the shots will be well exposed. I shoot a lot up at Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood see:
http://www.timberlinelodge.com It is an amazing destination wedding spot.
It is right at Timberline, which means if you look up at the mountain, there are no trees in the way to block your view, and if you look down the mountain its nothing but tree covered hills for miles and miles. The scenery is amazing. And, it's a photographers nightmare! Its cold, its sunny, and shady and hot, and snowy, and glary, all that in the same shot sometimes.
Automatic exposure modes just give you blown out mountain, or have your subject's faces in the deep dark shade.

To fix this sort of back lit problem and crank out 100 different portraits that are well exposed with very little thought I use manual mode. It may be easy for me to say because I cut my photo teeth on film and completely manual cameras, but you too can do it, and your camera can help you. Manual mode makes things easier in these situations, because you set it up correctly, and then everything you shoot will be well exposed, as long as the lighting stays the same.

So imagine 16 wedding attendants facing you with the sun behind them. If you set your camera to P mode and take a shot, chances are that their faces will be too dark because the cameras meter will be fooled by the bright background. If you could just get the exposure correct for their faces and lock the camera to that then you'd be set to shoot away.
So here is the trick. Set your camera to P mode (or AV if you are comfortable with selecting your own aperture. Zoom in on the subjects, allowing very little background, or no back ground to show. You can zoom in or walk very close. You may have to warn your subjects that you are "Just getting an exposure" if you are invading their personal space by getting too close. Look at the photo on the back of the camera, and see if the exposure is acceptable. If it is, your cameras review screen can be set to tell you the aperture and shutter speed it used. Then remember those two numbers and switch your camera to M mode and enter those numbers. Then you are done, you know that exposure will give you good results. Get out of your groom face and shoot away knowing your camera won't be fooled.
Now even if 10 brides maids walk up with white dresses, or 10 groomsmen in black tuxes you know what exposure to use. This is an amazing feeling, knowing the shot is going to work before you shoot it. Just don't forget to change back to P mode if you change locations.
Now sometimes you can get a perfect exposure for the back lit group, but then the background is important too, and if you expose for the people in the shade, your background will get blown out! This happens at Timberline, because everyone wants the mountain in the background of their shots, which always puts their faces in the shade. The only way to solve this is to use M mode with the camera set for the mountains exposure, and use your flash to fill in their faces. So... First go to P mode and snap a pic of the mountain, if it is a well exposed shot you can remember the settings and set them in your camera while it is in M mode. Then compose your shot with the mountain and the shady group and have your Camera flash on. Shoot and see if you like it. I bet you will.
(warning advanced procedure below which may require you to read your cameras manual. Oh nooooooooooooo!!! Not reading the manual!!!) One caution to this method is that the flash is probably set to an auto mode too. You can go to a manual mode for it too, but for this article lets do something different if the people still aren't bright enough, or they are too bright. Follow the steps above and see what the group shot looks like in M mode with the flash on. If the people are still too dark you can adjust the Flashes exposure compensation feature to give you more flash. I do this all the time and I consider this a must have skill. Knowing how to brighten or darken your flash for individual shots is critical. So learn how to do it, and adjust the flash up or down as much as needed for each shot.
Its not easy but take your time and do it in practice first, once you are comfortable adjusting your flash compensation there is no stopping you from getting great exposed subjects and backgrounds.

Try it you might like it and it will certainly make you a better photographer. I use this with my DSLR all the time, and point and shoot cameras also have this feature. In my Photo booths http://www.fortuenphotobooth.com the background is white. If I didn't use the flash exposure compensation on the cameras the subjects would be too dark. So boosting the flash exp. Comp. gives me better results. So if you like it with your DSLR, try it with your point and shoot too.

As always feel free to contact me directly with questions or comments. I am here to help, and I actually like talking about this stuff. Email me at soren@portlandphotographer.com
Cheers!
Soren Coughlin-Glaser
www.FortunePhotoBooth.com